9.10.06

Paynes Ford: Stone Symposium Wall - Danger Direct a R for Ranger variation (21)

With the addition of one bolt above the ledge above "Jimmy the torn piece of paper..." on the left of the arĂȘte a quality link up has been made between "Jimmy the torn piece of paper..." and the classic "R for Ranger ,D for Danger". The original link up between these two routes avoided the slightly scarier original start to "R for Ranger , D for Danger", by moving up from the top of "Jimmy..." , to the new bolt, climbing the wall just R of Temples of Stone till moving back R onto the arete as for the original line. This allows one to climb this without needing placed protection.
Mike McManaway on the new link up. Photo Phil Castle
There is some debate as to whether the extra 3-4 m of new climbing warrants a name... but Mike is calling it Danger direct.Some people feel that there is a dangerous fall potential before you clip the first runner on R for Ranger. Anyway this variation was climbed by Mike McManaway and is given *** and Grade 21 for the whole link. 7B. FA Sept/06