Tech Tip: Retreating off a sport climb (Method 1)

An Eco-Escape - Retreating off a route ….leaving nothing but memories… So you aren’t really the gun you thought you were. That pizza seems to be holding you back somehow. Tips are raw and there just isn’t the oomph in the arms that you need to pull through this first baffling crux. ….or maybe you are well up on that long multi pitch sport route in Chamonix dressed only in T shirt and shorts when the thunderstorm hits. So there is nothing for it but to back off, get back to the belay and get on down. The reasons may be many but the results the same. With a bit of forethought a couple of small pieces of gear can be utilized to leave nothing behind on that “sharp as” bolt bracket. What do you need? • A FiFi hook • A small steel maillion rapide (quick link?) - farm suppliers have these pretty cheap or a shackle • A 1/2 metre of “P” cord. • Abseil device... • Helmet !! What do you do? • Clip yourself into the hanger with your cows tail. • Hook the FiFi onto the hanger - ideally underneath the karabiner from your safety sling. • The p- cord should already be attached to the top of the FiFi. There is usually a small eye there. • Feed the rope through the rapide/shackle as per a normal abseil… you know equal amounts on each side. • On the side of the rope that is on the spine side of the Fi-Fi hook tie an overhand knot close to the top. The “P” cord should be hanging down on the side with the knot. • Attach the p- cord to this loop. You should have a slack loop of p-cord hanging around. • Put your belay device onto the rope and any back up prussick (if you use one). This next bit needs to be managed with some delicacy and finesse as you are hanging off a hook that could potentially come off if you started bouncing around a bit. • Ease your weight onto the rope, remove your safety and off you go. • When you get to the ground pull the side with the knot until the tension comes onto the the p-cord and the Fi-Fi pulls out. Watch out for the metal stuff flying down. Helmet useful here!!! The slack in the p-cord is to take up any creep that might occur with the rope. A steel rapide/shackle lasts better than an alloy one if you make a habit of this sort of trick. This method is less effective on steep sport routes that need to be cleaned as well as retreated from. Obviously carrying a bail ‘biner helps as you can leave it behind (once) or a shackle or some tat are other options but they are all things that are left behind as even more trash for someone else to deal with.